Jacques Pépin's Mayonnaise

One of the best of all sauces and perhaps the most useful, mayonnaise is a smooth emulsion of raw egg yolks and oil that lends itself to an infinite number of variations. It’s good with many cold foods: eggs; cooked vegetables such as asparagus, broccoli and artichokes; fresh tomatoes and vegetable salads; poached fish and shellfish; and chicken. I like it made with mustard because it is a powerful binder and, with the yolk, holds the emulsion together. Mayonnaise can be made by hand or in a food processor or blender. The oil should be at room temperature; if it’s cold, the mayonnaise will separate. Like most people, I rely on store-bought mayonnaise for everyday use but for a special party, I always make my own. Whether you use store-bought, handmade, or machine-made mayonnaise, the variations that follow will expand your culinary repertoire.